The small track weels (would be road wheels on a tank) are cast with the sprue attachment points inside the rims. Now, they most likely won’t be visible once the tracks are on, but if you absolutely need to clean them up it’s like this:


Clipped, then trimmed with a scalpel and a narrow sanding stick. Don’t ask why.

The lower running gear support assembly was a pain. It is ill-fitting and has wrong size polycaps, but that will be a later post when I take photos of the next one. I spent the better part of the afternoon building a track run. Wanted to see if it will have enough tension without further modifications. I think the stock length recommended by Meng will be fine. Each track “link” is composed of two side plates and a tread piece. Took a few minutes of experimentation before the assembly sequence was obvious. I completed one side. One more to go. Forty-three links times three pieces per link, equals one run.

This part basically sucks. All of the complaints about “accuracy” not withstanding I like one piece tracks. They are good enough for most everyone (non-modelers don’t even notice) and they are a hell of a lot quicker.


The three pieces, side plates and tread.


Side pieces on with the pin glued into an indentation on the opposite plate.


Tread glued to the top of the side plates, keyed on four small pegs for alignment.


Ending up with 12″ of surprisingly flexible track.

I’m still not clear on how I am to do the final link assembly once I put it on the tractor.

I plan to paint both the tractor and its assemblies and the tracks separately and perhaps some initial dirt, damage and wear before putting them all together.

Other than the odious and time-consuming track assembly and the poor fitting running gear assembly, it’s been an enjoyable build. I plan on experimenting with the vaunted hair spray weathering technique so stay tuned.